YURAGI Journal
Essays and field notes on private, unhurried journeys — value over volume, and the places, people, and craft most visitors never reach.
On Ryokan
In a ryokan, doing nothing is the whole point — and it is designed, not left to chance.
On Japanese Tourism
Japan's tourism boom is a numbers story. Its future won't be.
On Kyoto
In Kyoto, the crowd is not a place. It is a time of day.
On Japanese Dining
Japan's finest meals are often served to eight people at a time, on purpose.
On Tradition
What decides a sumo bout takes seconds. What precedes it takes centuries.
On Travelling Beyond
Toshogu is the reason most people come to Nikko. It is not the reason to stay.